One starting point for the trekking around Annapurna is the small village of Dumre located on the main road connecting Kathmandu and Pokhara. Frequent local buses ply this route and many people disembark here, both amateurs in trekking and inhabitants of the numerous small villages scattered around the lower section of the Marsyandi Valley. There is a very bad road commencing in Dumre that allows one to skip the first, not particularly interesting, 23 miles of trekking. The road is narrow and bumpy and our very old and overcrowded bus was completely unsuitable to negotiate it. The journey was unforgettable and really hair-raising, especially for the people travelling on the roof of the vehicle. We bet on whether our bus would roll over the cliff, get stuck or just fall apart while negotiating each successive stream. Surprisingly, these scenarios did not occur and the bus persistently moved forward. The day slowly turned to dusk. By the time the vehicle came to its final stop, it was completely dark outside and we found that we were parked in the middle of a stream. The indistinct lights of a small village could be seen in the near distance. We were in Besi Sahar, altitude 820 m, and the end of the road and the real beginning of our trekking. |